Dear Friends, Langkawi Island, Malaysia
06°18.63'N 099°50.58'E
At first daylight Henry brought his brother-in-law, producer/director Derek Goh and his cameraman in a little boat, so that they could film our last-minute preparations, another interview and our departure from Changi Sailing Club. Actually, that didn't really suit us very well, as departures are usually a bit hectic and this time we had to go all around Singapore where the traffic is extreme by any standards. The original plan was to only sail at daytime and the first place where we could anchor was far away.
Soon we were gone and had fun immediately as tug-boats pulling heavy barges were overtaking us on both sides. They had difficulty understanding how slow we were and on top of everything, fishers had put their nets right in the shipping lanes. Hard to believe, but true.
Once we were truly out of the harbour, things got a bit easier. Our progress was extremely slow, as the tide was against us. However, manager Edward had advised us to disregard the tide on this occasion and start as early as possible. It was 10:00 pm before we reached the first place outside of Singaporean waters where we could drop the hook. The next morning we saw that we had anchored very close to a fish farm, that had lights only on its main structure. We decided to take a day off, as our Chinese friends had hosted a good-bye party on a fish-farm which lasted until 1:00 am, so it was at least 2:00 am before we got to bed - only to get up about three hours later. We watched the fireworks for the Chinese Lunar New Year and had a pleasant evening in the cockpit.
The next morning we rubbed our eyes and realized that a driftnet was coming towards us -- and not all that slowly. We just had time to start our engines, put them in reverse gear and pick up the anchor before we got entangled in the net. Close call! The next night we anchored as well, as almost all our friends in Singapore recommended to sail only in daylight. Otherwise the chance to pick up a net would be around 50%. And dealing with a net in the dark, surrounded by shipping, strong currents and diving at night to disentangle the boat; that was about the worst thing I could imagine at that moment.
When some fishers put their net in our vicinity, I invited them on board for a coffee. Daud and Hassan accepted the offer gratefully and told me that I wouldn't have to worry about their net, as the tide was carrying it the other way. And if we had any problems at all in the area, we should just mention their names as all the fisherman knew each other quite well and they had many friends here. When they went back to work, I soon crept into my bunk as well.
A little while later, I heard a creaking sound but couldn't figure out where it came from. Liping wasn't successful either although she has two functioning ears and can usually tell at least the direction where the sound is coming from. Not this time. Soon after a little fishing boat arrived and when I went to the foredeck, I saw immediately what the problem was. Their driftnet was caught in our anchor chain and the strong current caused the noise. A few seconds later our anchor alarm went off. I called out to the fishermen, their heavy wooden boat crashed into our port bow and two of the guys came on board.
By now the tide was so strong, that one of them could stand on the net like an acrobat doing a high-wire act. No chance to save the drift-net, so out came a very sharp machete and the net was cut. They set off to save the rest of the net and promised to be back around midnight.
Meanwhile we found out that there were numerous scratches, dents and other damage on our gelcoat. Our mood plummeted, because we knew that these poor fishermen simply didn't have the cash to pay for these repairs. Pointless to even ask them. When the father ("I am a pensioner!") and his two sons showed up a few hours later, we first made some more coffee and then we had a discussion. They needed a new net-segment, which cost 40 Ringgit (US$ 12) and told us that it was a very bad idea indeed to anchor in these parts. The nets were simply everywhere as all these guys needed to feed their families. This kind of stuff would be happening again and again if we insisted to anchor overnight. We'd be much better off if we stayed just inside the shipping lanes. In the daytime we could also sail outside as we would have to hit one of the white buoys straight on before we would really get into trouble.
So this is what we did after that eventful night. No problem all the way to Langkawi Island, but when we were almost there, on the very last night, in excellent visibility and with all our lights on, we were almost run down again by a small freighter. It was my watch and I could see it coming -- but I couldn't determine exactly which way I should steer as the ship was heading straight for me. I started the engine. Red, green, the two white lights perfectly lined up. As we are extremely slow under engine (there was no wind at all), it would be fatal if I were to motor in the wrong direction.
So I had to wait quite a while until I was sure and when the freighter passed very close and right behind us, I started to shake quite badly and my heart was beating very fast. Even hours later I could still feel the after-effects of the adrenaline. Maybe radar and AIS aren't a bad idea after all, since nobody looks out the window any more.
We had to take down all sail, as we don't like to enter unknown places in the dark. Also the roller-reefing didn't want to turn any more, so we had to brute-force it and damaged our headsail in the process. In daylight we continued to Kuah where we cleared in. Liping got permission to stay for 14 days, although she had obtained a visa in Singapore.
The first thing we noticed was the heat. Not quite as hot as Darwin, but with 37°C still considerable - especially if heavy physical work is required or (even worse) one has to work in the engine room. Of course, these things were first on the agenda. First I had to get around 160 litres of water to fill up our tanks again, we needed to do our provisioning and then we had to replace at least two of our extremely heavy batteries which had gone belly-up. The latter took a whole day and after that ordeal I was unapproachable, very dirty & covered with scratches and bruises. On top of that I had somehow damaged my right wrist. That evening I just sat in the cockpit with several gin & tonics as well as a good book.
Fortunately, boat life isn't like that every day, although sometimes I have my doubts about that. We got to know Rene and Nadine on HALLIE from South Africa and spent many pleasant hours together. We also met Abraham, a Malaysian originally from Pinang, who had worked many years in the merchant navy. He is a grandfather, looks like one, but is just a few years older than me. We got along immediately and Abraham drove us all over the island. Soon, we were fast friends. If it weren't for all these people, we would have long since given up on this lifestyle. As it is, they convince us again and again to continue.
Kuah doesn't seem a very healthy place for foreigners to settle down, though. Life is dirt-cheap (the three of us could live in comparative comfort for about US$ 200/month here), there's the beaches, the palm trees, the water and the weather - everything you know from the brochures at the travel agent - but life completely without work, without goals and future plans doesn't seem to agree with most people. It seems to lead mostly to indolence, lethargy and especially to excessive drinking. Ted & Adrienne from MOMENTUM, which we had first met in Darwin and who have two children on board, even spoke of "Death Row". Most of these guys here plan to stay for good, because everything is so inexpensive and so many of them would never be forced to work again. The can't imagine life back in Europe, Australia or North America and even if they live in real poverty, even if they lose their teeth or maybe a leg, even if they live the life of a homeless person, it is still not enough to convince them that there might be better alternatives. Even when loneliness slowly drives them insane. We haven't met a single one, not here nor in Indonesia, who even admits the problem to him- or herself and considers to maybe try life again back in the old country (or somewhere else for that matter).
All of this is quite scary, especially for me. What if I get caught in the same trap one of these days? I am not at all enamoured with the idea of setting up a new company somewhere and go to work every day, but still I'd rather work until the end of my life then live as miserably as many westerners here seem to be doing. Even now I am rather annoyed by the fact that my friends are getting less and less over the years. In New Zealand there were old friends like Roy on SEA LONE (we met in Kourou, French Guyana, in 1989 when I was there on my first catamaran DHARMA BUM) or new friends like Schelmi & Isabelle (who had just finished building their beautiful Wharram Tiki 46 WAKATAITEA when we met) and a few other people who were really on our wave-length. Now, however, we are right back amongst the "Second Lifers" (as Holger on PYTHEAS IV calls them). It takes some adjusting, just like we experienced reverse culture shock when coming back to Asia from the wide open seas of the Pacific. We don't really have all that much in common with these "cruisers".
It does not really help when some men are staring rudely at Liping and make offensive remarks like "Pussy-power doesn't work around here!" Or when complete novices tell us how to do even the most simple things. Often I am reminded of the words of Bill Gross, whose monthly articles I have read for many, many years. Here is the link: http://tinyurl.com/yfejbkt
A few days ago, we rented a car and went to see immigration, which is on the other side of the island. Unfortunately, Liping only got another one-time-only extension of 30 days, so that she'll have to leave the country every 6 weeks at least. Bummer! Soon she and Aurora Ulani will fly to Taipei to visit the family and I will stay here, attempting to do some work on the boat. The headsail has been repaired, the stack-pack is being worked on, the dinghy-cover and bimini are next. The ProFurl N52 roller reefing is apart and I am trying to repair it myself. The rigger has been here, so have the mechanic and the sailmaker. As usual, progress is excruciatingly slow, but at least there is some. We'll seen how long we stay here. If it gets too crazy, well move the boat to Phuket/Thailand and continue over there. One of these days Abraham and his Thai wife are going to come by and Aurora Ulani has already made new friends with Chinese children over here. Life's good and I hope that's true for you too!
Ciao for now!
Aurora Ulani, Liping & Holger
Tel: +60175767958
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